PRE-SPRING 2016

Eastern curves and embellishment have been an inspiration in western dress for centuries. This season, Thierry Colson incorporates elements of this rich cultural exchange From Loulou de la Falaise’s orientalism with Yves Saint Laurent, to the influence of Persian flamboyance in the court dress of Louis XIV and the exuberant pairings of American heiress Doris Duke, the 1920s richest girl in the world, who amassed one of the finest collections of Islamic art in the 20th century and created her own, unique style mixing sportwear and ethnicity


The Moroccan gandora is transformed into a shirt dress in fine, Italian silk stripes and silk poplin. An ample, crossover, cut on the bias, becomes an airy piece. And a buttonless, untailored coat, tapered with back panels in poplin, bears a filmy resemblance to the influence of Persian  style on the court of  Louis XIV to wear with a pair of shorts.


A Japanese cotton with a chintz finish in a Peruvian spaced calico print of 18th century carnations on black and saffron grounds features in a  folkloric pin-tucked group edged in dark, geometric lace.  The round-yoke smock dress with black piping, resembles an 18th century panier gown without the bustle, or a 1920’s tea dress. There’s an ample smock jacket, and a proper Victorian blouse inspired by Isabelle Huppert’s character in Michael Cimino’s 70s classic “Heaven’s Gate.“ And a wide skirt with full pin-tucked waist follows suit.

Eyelet takes on color and pattern. Scattered with pompm flowers, edged in French knots and fringed at the neck, in white and black, it shows in both a full dress and an elongated T-shirt style with vertical patterned panels inspired by a piece discovered in a souk in Istanbul.


Collars, cuffs and hems  embroidered in a mix of satin and metallic yarns in a thick swathe of variegated stripes illuminate simple kurta dresses in milky pink and turquoise for a shirt-dress style Doris Duke would have loved.


The modest finery in Léa Seydoux’s wardrobe from ”Journal d’Une Femme de Chambre, ” inspires a nurse’s blouse with ¾ placket in a jacquard mini stripe in silky cotton colored in the whitest shades of blue, green and orange.


And for the most special occasions chanderi saree fabric in a silky, gauze-like cotton is patterned with a constellation of metallic  dots  in black and white or sky blue for airy dressing.

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